The End of the Trail

Yesterday was the final stage of my Camino - the trip into Santiago and the pilgrim's mass at the cathedral.

The day began very early as we needed to cover the distance of 22kms by 11 o clock so we could join the mass at noon. It was cold and dark when we set off walking just before 6am. Our little band of four people, three German friends and myself found the first Camino marker with the aid of headlamps. Soon we picked up a Spanish man who had no light and we entered the eucalyptus forest which made up most of the final stage.

Everyone agreed it was like a scene from "Lord of the Rings", trooping alone through the misty and very fragrant forest - lights bobbing in the darkness. I attempted a few verses of "The Happy Wanderer" and the others filled in the "fall a dee" chorus. We could hear some far off roosters giving the local wake-up call but it was close to an hour before the birds in the forest came to life.

When we reached the forest edge a light rain had started - the first in days and even though we reached a high point close to Santiago there was little visibility. It's always strange on the Camino when we walk into a city after days in the countryside and small villages. Santiago was different - there were statues and signs everywhere celebrating the Camino - people honked at us in greeting and we started to see the familiar faces of pilgrims who had moved ahead of us and were now part of the local colour.

All around the cathedral were other travellers most still wearing their packs taking photographs of each other, greeting Camino friends and making phone calls home. The air was electric and there was a babble of voices in every language!

When we entered the cathedral there were few seats left.People attend the pilgrim's mass more than once and there was a rumour we might see the swinging of the giant botafumeiro - the giant incense burner. We were not disappointed - the mass was a very moving service and we were also treated to the ritual of the incense which involves several priests and is a one of a kind experience.

We spend the rest of the yesterday meeting and greeting other pilgrims, exchanging email addresses and simply relaxing. Some became tourists and shopped for things to take home - on the Camino we didn't want to carry the extra weight!

One thing every pilgrim collected at the Camino office was the 'Compostela' a certificate of completion of the Camino Frances. In recent years one need only complete the last 100km of the Camino to receive the Compostela. Others like me start in France and walk 800km to arrive in Santiago. We also met pilgrims who have clocked over 3,000kms, starting in Switzerland, for example, or in the south of Italy. We are all part of the same adventure.

Today a group of us took a bus to Finisterre and some actually dipped their toes in the sea. It was strange being without the knapsacks and very odd to be on a bus- a number of us felt quite ill on the three hour ride as we took the hair-pin turns along the coast. The coastal villages are lovely - the area has some white sand beaches which are quite secluded. For pilgrims, the trip to Finisterre is a traditional new beginning after the Camino - for me, it was also a beautiful way to end my journey. Paul will join me in Santiago on Saturday. It will be wonderful to see him and my family again very soon. I have missed home but my time on the Camino is an experience I will cherish forever.

Countdown to Santiago

Tonight the excitement is building as we are in Arca within 20kms of Santiago and a short day´s journey away. The last few days one could feel the buzz in the air. We have been joined on the Camino by people who have followed the Camino Norte across the nortern coast of Spain and the other Camino which comes across the centre of Spain (name escapes me). There are also what we affectionately call day-packers on the route now we are near the end. These are either locals who like to walk a short section of the Camino or members of organized tour groups who walk together for sections of the trail but with bus or van support. They are definitely more fashionably dressed and refreshed looking after a comfortable night´s sleep! Friends who made better time and have already arrived in Santiago are emailing me with details of the cathederal and the reunion of friends - it all adds to the thrill!

Friendships made on the Camino are close and supportive. The injured and limping pilgrims are helped along the way by new friends with extra bandages and kind words. Some people are nursing other wounds, suffering the loss of a family member or the break-up of a marriage. Others are walking to give thanks for surviving serious illness or to accompany a friend or family member who needed to walk the Camino. Then there are the athletic types -people who either walk or bike the Camino for a physical challenge. I have been amazed how many older pilgrims look much younger than their age. Yesterday I talked to two women from Austria who have spent two months on the Camino starting in France and covering about 1500 kms. They were both well over 65 and still friends - even after all that distance together in often less than ideal conditions.

Like many other pilgrims I am on the Camino alone but yet never lonely. Sometimes I have chosen solitude for part of a day but one can always enjoy the company of others. For the last few days I have spent my evenings with a group of German pilgrims who met each other on the Camino. Their English is excellent - reinforcing my personal commitment to master a second language this next year - maybe even a third! I believe it enriches your life to be able to understand and communicate well in another language. Also it is good for the brain which continues to need it´s own excercise to keep young. It will be hard to say goodbye to the Camino but I hope to keep many of my new friendships through the power of the internet!

Water, Wind and Sun

Water is a precious resource in Spain. Along the Camino we become very aware of its value and the many sources of water. In some places, fast moving rivers are used for generating power and in other areas elaborate aquaduct and canal systems deliver water for farmers to irrigate their crops. We have walked for vast distances alongside raised stone or concrete aquaducts which can be accessed by farmers who pay a form of tax to divert water for their fields. The ancient systems work surprizingly well and the modern systems involving pipe and pumps seem to involve so much more manpower and often have problems . Along the rivers in Galicia there are small sluice gates which can be raised - again for a fee, diverting a small quantity of water for the farmer. He is given a key and the regulations are very strict so there is less abuse. On Saturday I arrived in Portomarin, a town that was moved in the 1960´s when a dam was built on the Mino to create a huge water reservoir. The town was rebuilt higher up above the reservoir and the views from our alberque reminded me of a small lake in Ontario. We have not seen any lakes, only rivers and with the very hot weather we´re experiencing right now one wonders if some of the rivers will dry up during the summer. Today´s journey crossed over six rivers making for a few kms of cooler, shady paths - part of the way we passed through groves of huge eucalyptus trees. The fragrance was almost intoxicating but we aren´t sure how the wood is used - perhaps for furniture?

There have been several places in northern Spain where the power of wind is being harnessed by huge wind turbines. They are often a strong contrast to the natural beauty of the hills and mountains and disliked by many people. When the Camino passed close to a long row of these turbines we could hear the power of the blades above us. The area was so windy it was nearly impossible to walk against the force of the wind. Although the turbines do intrude on the landscape there is a type of beauty in the simple design and it´s satisfying to know that a form of alternate energy is in use.

Of course the sun is a powerful force in Spain. Despite the warnings that spring might bring rain we have had almost constant sunny, hot weather. Again there have been numerous examples of the use of alternate energy with solar panels on private homes and even on some public buildings. It is because of the sun that the siesta is very much a part of Spanish life. The mornings and evenings are much cooler and people take two hours a day off from work to rest - businesses are closed from 2 o´clock to 4 o´clock but it can vary from town to town. Every home and establishment has metal or wooden blinds that screen out all the sun during the hottest part of the day. Unfortunately for pilgrims it can give the impression that a town or village is shut against us or deserted if we pass through in siesta! We are somewhat out of sinc with ordinary Spanish culture. Most of us rise at 5 or 6am are on the Camino by 7am and stop for the day in the middle of siesta. We are hungry for dinner a good two hours before the locals eat their dinner and need to be in bed between 9 and 10pm! It all makes for an interesting exercise in adaptation! How will we adjust back to our normal lives?

Gifts of the Camino

Today was a special day on the Camino. Every day there have been gifts but today was a day to reflect on what has been important to me in my life and therefore the gifts I have been given. From the beginning of this journey pilgrims on the trail talk and even make jokes about the "gifts". A few times people received what they needed most and the timing was uncanny. One day I walked with Kevin from New York who told me he´d been craving chocolate after a long stretch without much food. He came around a corner and found a small package of Oreo cookies someone had dropped and they tasted fabulous! When he stopped later that day he realized a bag with two oranges he´d bought had split open and one had dropped out - someone who was craving an orange was going to get a Camino gift! Over and over again I hear of these experiences. In several places early in my trip people had abandoned clothes or other assorted thing that made their packs too heavy. Usually another person found just what he/she needed in this way. One day on the Meseta when our water bottles were dry and no fountains marked on the map Maryse and I came across a private home with an outside tap and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves - there was even a bench to sit on and we were exhausted!

This afternoon I came across a little oasis in the form of a private albergue not in my guide. It is the best place I´ve found so far and truly a gift as I was at the end of my strength with a few more kms to go before Sarria where I intended to stay. A Spanish family has created a sanctuary for pilgrims on their country property. The rooms are small with just a few beds, spotless bathrooms and a wonderful three course vegitarian dinner was made for us. There are cats everywhere (I love cats) and the other guests are friendly and enjoying the solitude of the gardens. I spent over an hour in a hammock writing my journal surrounded by birdsong and the chirping of crickets. Life doesn´t get any sweeter than this.

The day began with my decision to walk alone again to Samos where I intended to visit a Benedictine monastery. The route I took made for a long day but the journey was worth it. The first part followed the Ouribio River and was beautiful with many sections of rapids and small waterfalls. It was a peaceful morning and I started to reflect on all that I remember and love about my life. The time I´ve spent in nature in the last few weeks has reminded me what a great part the wilderness has played in our family history. I spent time as a child with parents and sisters on camping trips and the smell of wood smoke (and wet canvas!) still takes me back. The fresh baked bread my mother produced for our picnics is the best bread I´ve ever tasted. In the wilderness we feel alive and part of something greater than ourselves. The love of family and friends is the greatest gift in my life - time spent together whether in the city, at the cottage or anywhere in the world is precious and I have found that most of the people I meet on the Camino share these sentiments. Now that we are nearing the end of the journey many of us are thinking of home.

The monastery at Samos still provides a home for several Benedictine monks. They work in the gardens and take care of the lighter work on the property. While we toured the cloisters and grounds I could hear Gregorian chanting and found it hauntingly beautiful in that setting. Part of the monastery was distroyed by fire in the eary 1950s and has been lovingly restored - it is a treasured site in Spain and people come from all over the country to visit every year.The town of Samos is in a green valley and the climb out took me back along the river and through shady forests for about 10kms. When I reached open roads through farmers´ fields the heat of the day was intense, I was nearly out of water and suddenly as if by magic, a small fountain appeared. I filled my bottle and carried on. There were still a few kms to go and just when I felt totally exhausted I found the albergue Paloma y Lena and here I am -totally grateful for a day well spent!

Galicia and the Final Stage

Yesterday near O¨Cebreiro I left the region of Castilla y Leon and entered the region of Galicia. From now until Santiago I will travel through this region which is much like other Celtic places in Europe. The countryside reminds me of Ireland with it´s green mountains, farms bordered by stone walls and changeable weather. Like Ireland the people celebrate their Celtic traditions. There is a separate language spoken by many people in the region much like in Gaelic Scotland and the music features bagpipes and distinctly Celtic tunes. Spanish dancers perform dances very similar to those in Irish and Scottish country dancing and the traditional dress is also closely related. Long before Christianity came to Spain there was a pagan celebration of life and nature and the symbols can be found alongside the Christian crosses and other symbols on the Camino. You can buy Celtic crosses here, music from Ireland and Scotland and books in Spanish by writers who research Celtic history and traditions.



This morning´s departure was illuminated by the most glorious sunrise. The air was much cooler in the mountains forcing me to wear all my layers including gloves for the first hour. My raincoat has often done double duty as it keeps the wind at bay with a fleece underneath. It has been wonderful having just the right clothes in my pack and no more. Most of us get by with two of everything (doing a daily wash is routine) and sandals make a change from my boots at the end of the day. I have been sorry to see the struggles of people who have brought too much from home or picked up things along the way - it all has to be carried!

People have asked me if my clothes still fit "you must be wasting away" and "you¨ll be a shadow of your former self" are expressions that have peppered the e-mails from friends. No such luck! While the exercise is strenuous and I feel and have been healthy, I have also been enjoying the food here in Spain. All the fresh air and exercise makes one ravenous throughout the day. Although the ¨pilgrim´s menu¨ can be repeditive the food offered is generally delicious and there´s always plenty. Most evenings we are given the choice of a hearty soup, mixed salad (topped with egg and tuna) or pasta and that´s just the first course. The second course can be pork, fish, rabbit, ham or eggs with vegetables and potatoes. Then a dessert is included with a bottle of red wine and water. Of course bread accompanies every meal much to my chagrin! All this food can usually be had for the sum of anywhere from 7 to 9 euros! Since the albergues usually charge anywhere from a low of 3 euros to 8 euros for a night´s accomodation one can complete the Camino on a pretty tight budget! As a life experience my Camino journey is unbelievable value in so many ways!

Magic of the Mountains

The last few days have included some of the most spectacular scenery of the Camino. I have climbed two mountains and been on top of the world! On Sunday starting from Rabinal del Camino in a light mist I climbed to over 1400 metres. The first village was totally deserted (only five residents) and the remains of houses and a crumbled church gave the place a spooky quality. The trail was narrow and lined with shrubs of brilliant purple and yellow with alpine flowers everywhere close to the ground. Despite the poor visibility, the morning was magical - we knew we were climbing very high as the trail was steep but the mist turned to rain and later hail - we encountered all the bad weather in one day after several days of perfect weather! All around us there were the sounds of cow bells, songbirds and the wind. Suddenly the clouds moved away and the sun broke through - the views were incredible! We could see the trail snaking back down the mountain and the tiny figures of other pilgrims making their way through the rain as we started to strip off our very wet outerwear.

At Cruz de Ferro (a tall wooden pole with an iron cross on top) the tradition is to leave a stone from home with a wish that all the bad history will stay behind in that spot. The pile of stones left by pilgrims over the centuries is enormous. Of course I left my own stone behind and continued on my way much lighter! The rest of that day we climbed again and then made the long descent , which is very hard on the legs and knees as the trail is covered with loose stones. Villages appear far off in the distance - it takes forever to reach them as one must traverse the mountains to descend. The local bars(restaurants) are happy to see us - hungry pilgrims can eat and drink much more than regular patrons!

Flowers are blooming everywhere in Spain in May and the alpine flowers are unbelievable. Sometimes a hill is covered with lavendar and buttercups, the meadows with daisies, clover and the prettiest white flowers I cannot name. The fragrance adds to the magic - I could be in heaven! I am also amazed but the quality and profusion of roses along the Camino. Even a broken down shepherd´s hut has a rose bush growing at the side and there has been no sign of mold or black spot on any roses I´ve seen. Every colour and size of bloom is represented - it is quite remarkable. If I spoke the language better I´d find out the secret! Even at the highest altitudes farms and gardens are well attended. Often the farmer will arrive in his little car with his tools and spend time tending the plants before leaving - probably for the closest town where he lives. There are few houses on the hills, usually just a small hut for protection from sudden bad weather. The sheep and cows are taken from their barns in the villages in the mornings and herded up into the high pastures where they stay all day. One day in the mountains we encountered a shepherd moving his flock with his dogs in ther middle of a thunderstorm. I had to make way and wait for them to pass - a frightening situation as there were huge power towers right overhead. There are no options when this happens - the farmer has the right of way on the mountain trails!

Today I climbed up to O´Cebreiro (over 1300 metres) in brilliant sunshine, the trail dry and all was wonderful! For the first time on the Camino I was entirely alone with my thoughts and the magnificence of nature! For the past two days I have walked with John and Encarnita Gardner, friends from Toronto who have returned this year to complete the Camino they started last year. It was wonderful spending time with them - they both speak Spanish and have a weath of knowledge about the Camino. Yesterday we travelled from Cacabelos, through Villafranca and up the Pradela route to a ridge which followed along the Valcarce pass. It was a taxing day for all of us - the day was hot and the climb long and steep but very rewarding with beautiful views into the valleys below. Many people chose the road option and we could see them far below following a highway all the way. As hard as the trail was I believe we chose the best route - another day of magic in the mountains made beter by the company of friends!

Leon and Beyond

Yesterday I spent the better part of a day in the city of Leon. We arrived on market day and one of the major plazas was full of booths featuring local meat, cheese, fruits , vegetables and other goods. After the quiet of the Meseta it was exciting to be in a big city and wander around like a tourist. The Leon cathederal is a beautiful gothic masterpiece with the most elaborate stained glass windows. The light from the windows is so illuminating even in such a massive space that I was able to use my camera inside without a flash. Later in the day I joined a small group admitted to a renovation platform high inside the cathederal where we were able to see some of the stained glass very close to the ceiling. I have never experienced anything like it - we were up about 20 metres and the effect was awe inspiring. It was such an emotional moment for everyone in the group. We could actually touch the windows - the colours at close range were incredibly bright and then we could look down into the body of the cathederal and see all of the design laid out beneath us.

By contrast to the cathederals in this part of Spain the village churches have been quite simple (usually Romanesque in design) but with ornate altar pieces as their main ornamentation. We have often found them to be like an oasis of cool space after a hot day on the Camino. Sometimes when the albergue is near or attached to a church we are invited to take part in a special mass or service. In the village of Granon the service was on the day before mother´s day and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The service was led by a woman and included responses by the congregation that most of us didn´t understand. However, the hymns were sung without music or even the aid of hymnals in the sweetest voices by the men and women (mostly elderly) who made up the congregation. Their faith and comfort with their church was quite inspiring -most of us were very touched. In so many of these villages, it is the older residents who keep up the traditions.