Gifts of the Camino

Today was a special day on the Camino. Every day there have been gifts but today was a day to reflect on what has been important to me in my life and therefore the gifts I have been given. From the beginning of this journey pilgrims on the trail talk and even make jokes about the "gifts". A few times people received what they needed most and the timing was uncanny. One day I walked with Kevin from New York who told me he´d been craving chocolate after a long stretch without much food. He came around a corner and found a small package of Oreo cookies someone had dropped and they tasted fabulous! When he stopped later that day he realized a bag with two oranges he´d bought had split open and one had dropped out - someone who was craving an orange was going to get a Camino gift! Over and over again I hear of these experiences. In several places early in my trip people had abandoned clothes or other assorted thing that made their packs too heavy. Usually another person found just what he/she needed in this way. One day on the Meseta when our water bottles were dry and no fountains marked on the map Maryse and I came across a private home with an outside tap and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves - there was even a bench to sit on and we were exhausted!

This afternoon I came across a little oasis in the form of a private albergue not in my guide. It is the best place I´ve found so far and truly a gift as I was at the end of my strength with a few more kms to go before Sarria where I intended to stay. A Spanish family has created a sanctuary for pilgrims on their country property. The rooms are small with just a few beds, spotless bathrooms and a wonderful three course vegitarian dinner was made for us. There are cats everywhere (I love cats) and the other guests are friendly and enjoying the solitude of the gardens. I spent over an hour in a hammock writing my journal surrounded by birdsong and the chirping of crickets. Life doesn´t get any sweeter than this.

The day began with my decision to walk alone again to Samos where I intended to visit a Benedictine monastery. The route I took made for a long day but the journey was worth it. The first part followed the Ouribio River and was beautiful with many sections of rapids and small waterfalls. It was a peaceful morning and I started to reflect on all that I remember and love about my life. The time I´ve spent in nature in the last few weeks has reminded me what a great part the wilderness has played in our family history. I spent time as a child with parents and sisters on camping trips and the smell of wood smoke (and wet canvas!) still takes me back. The fresh baked bread my mother produced for our picnics is the best bread I´ve ever tasted. In the wilderness we feel alive and part of something greater than ourselves. The love of family and friends is the greatest gift in my life - time spent together whether in the city, at the cottage or anywhere in the world is precious and I have found that most of the people I meet on the Camino share these sentiments. Now that we are nearing the end of the journey many of us are thinking of home.

The monastery at Samos still provides a home for several Benedictine monks. They work in the gardens and take care of the lighter work on the property. While we toured the cloisters and grounds I could hear Gregorian chanting and found it hauntingly beautiful in that setting. Part of the monastery was distroyed by fire in the eary 1950s and has been lovingly restored - it is a treasured site in Spain and people come from all over the country to visit every year.The town of Samos is in a green valley and the climb out took me back along the river and through shady forests for about 10kms. When I reached open roads through farmers´ fields the heat of the day was intense, I was nearly out of water and suddenly as if by magic, a small fountain appeared. I filled my bottle and carried on. There were still a few kms to go and just when I felt totally exhausted I found the albergue Paloma y Lena and here I am -totally grateful for a day well spent!