Water, Wind and Sun

Water is a precious resource in Spain. Along the Camino we become very aware of its value and the many sources of water. In some places, fast moving rivers are used for generating power and in other areas elaborate aquaduct and canal systems deliver water for farmers to irrigate their crops. We have walked for vast distances alongside raised stone or concrete aquaducts which can be accessed by farmers who pay a form of tax to divert water for their fields. The ancient systems work surprizingly well and the modern systems involving pipe and pumps seem to involve so much more manpower and often have problems . Along the rivers in Galicia there are small sluice gates which can be raised - again for a fee, diverting a small quantity of water for the farmer. He is given a key and the regulations are very strict so there is less abuse. On Saturday I arrived in Portomarin, a town that was moved in the 1960´s when a dam was built on the Mino to create a huge water reservoir. The town was rebuilt higher up above the reservoir and the views from our alberque reminded me of a small lake in Ontario. We have not seen any lakes, only rivers and with the very hot weather we´re experiencing right now one wonders if some of the rivers will dry up during the summer. Today´s journey crossed over six rivers making for a few kms of cooler, shady paths - part of the way we passed through groves of huge eucalyptus trees. The fragrance was almost intoxicating but we aren´t sure how the wood is used - perhaps for furniture?

There have been several places in northern Spain where the power of wind is being harnessed by huge wind turbines. They are often a strong contrast to the natural beauty of the hills and mountains and disliked by many people. When the Camino passed close to a long row of these turbines we could hear the power of the blades above us. The area was so windy it was nearly impossible to walk against the force of the wind. Although the turbines do intrude on the landscape there is a type of beauty in the simple design and it´s satisfying to know that a form of alternate energy is in use.

Of course the sun is a powerful force in Spain. Despite the warnings that spring might bring rain we have had almost constant sunny, hot weather. Again there have been numerous examples of the use of alternate energy with solar panels on private homes and even on some public buildings. It is because of the sun that the siesta is very much a part of Spanish life. The mornings and evenings are much cooler and people take two hours a day off from work to rest - businesses are closed from 2 o´clock to 4 o´clock but it can vary from town to town. Every home and establishment has metal or wooden blinds that screen out all the sun during the hottest part of the day. Unfortunately for pilgrims it can give the impression that a town or village is shut against us or deserted if we pass through in siesta! We are somewhat out of sinc with ordinary Spanish culture. Most of us rise at 5 or 6am are on the Camino by 7am and stop for the day in the middle of siesta. We are hungry for dinner a good two hours before the locals eat their dinner and need to be in bed between 9 and 10pm! It all makes for an interesting exercise in adaptation! How will we adjust back to our normal lives?

Gifts of the Camino

Today was a special day on the Camino. Every day there have been gifts but today was a day to reflect on what has been important to me in my life and therefore the gifts I have been given. From the beginning of this journey pilgrims on the trail talk and even make jokes about the "gifts". A few times people received what they needed most and the timing was uncanny. One day I walked with Kevin from New York who told me he´d been craving chocolate after a long stretch without much food. He came around a corner and found a small package of Oreo cookies someone had dropped and they tasted fabulous! When he stopped later that day he realized a bag with two oranges he´d bought had split open and one had dropped out - someone who was craving an orange was going to get a Camino gift! Over and over again I hear of these experiences. In several places early in my trip people had abandoned clothes or other assorted thing that made their packs too heavy. Usually another person found just what he/she needed in this way. One day on the Meseta when our water bottles were dry and no fountains marked on the map Maryse and I came across a private home with an outside tap and a sign for pilgrims to help themselves - there was even a bench to sit on and we were exhausted!

This afternoon I came across a little oasis in the form of a private albergue not in my guide. It is the best place I´ve found so far and truly a gift as I was at the end of my strength with a few more kms to go before Sarria where I intended to stay. A Spanish family has created a sanctuary for pilgrims on their country property. The rooms are small with just a few beds, spotless bathrooms and a wonderful three course vegitarian dinner was made for us. There are cats everywhere (I love cats) and the other guests are friendly and enjoying the solitude of the gardens. I spent over an hour in a hammock writing my journal surrounded by birdsong and the chirping of crickets. Life doesn´t get any sweeter than this.

The day began with my decision to walk alone again to Samos where I intended to visit a Benedictine monastery. The route I took made for a long day but the journey was worth it. The first part followed the Ouribio River and was beautiful with many sections of rapids and small waterfalls. It was a peaceful morning and I started to reflect on all that I remember and love about my life. The time I´ve spent in nature in the last few weeks has reminded me what a great part the wilderness has played in our family history. I spent time as a child with parents and sisters on camping trips and the smell of wood smoke (and wet canvas!) still takes me back. The fresh baked bread my mother produced for our picnics is the best bread I´ve ever tasted. In the wilderness we feel alive and part of something greater than ourselves. The love of family and friends is the greatest gift in my life - time spent together whether in the city, at the cottage or anywhere in the world is precious and I have found that most of the people I meet on the Camino share these sentiments. Now that we are nearing the end of the journey many of us are thinking of home.

The monastery at Samos still provides a home for several Benedictine monks. They work in the gardens and take care of the lighter work on the property. While we toured the cloisters and grounds I could hear Gregorian chanting and found it hauntingly beautiful in that setting. Part of the monastery was distroyed by fire in the eary 1950s and has been lovingly restored - it is a treasured site in Spain and people come from all over the country to visit every year.The town of Samos is in a green valley and the climb out took me back along the river and through shady forests for about 10kms. When I reached open roads through farmers´ fields the heat of the day was intense, I was nearly out of water and suddenly as if by magic, a small fountain appeared. I filled my bottle and carried on. There were still a few kms to go and just when I felt totally exhausted I found the albergue Paloma y Lena and here I am -totally grateful for a day well spent!

Galicia and the Final Stage

Yesterday near O¨Cebreiro I left the region of Castilla y Leon and entered the region of Galicia. From now until Santiago I will travel through this region which is much like other Celtic places in Europe. The countryside reminds me of Ireland with it´s green mountains, farms bordered by stone walls and changeable weather. Like Ireland the people celebrate their Celtic traditions. There is a separate language spoken by many people in the region much like in Gaelic Scotland and the music features bagpipes and distinctly Celtic tunes. Spanish dancers perform dances very similar to those in Irish and Scottish country dancing and the traditional dress is also closely related. Long before Christianity came to Spain there was a pagan celebration of life and nature and the symbols can be found alongside the Christian crosses and other symbols on the Camino. You can buy Celtic crosses here, music from Ireland and Scotland and books in Spanish by writers who research Celtic history and traditions.



This morning´s departure was illuminated by the most glorious sunrise. The air was much cooler in the mountains forcing me to wear all my layers including gloves for the first hour. My raincoat has often done double duty as it keeps the wind at bay with a fleece underneath. It has been wonderful having just the right clothes in my pack and no more. Most of us get by with two of everything (doing a daily wash is routine) and sandals make a change from my boots at the end of the day. I have been sorry to see the struggles of people who have brought too much from home or picked up things along the way - it all has to be carried!

People have asked me if my clothes still fit "you must be wasting away" and "you¨ll be a shadow of your former self" are expressions that have peppered the e-mails from friends. No such luck! While the exercise is strenuous and I feel and have been healthy, I have also been enjoying the food here in Spain. All the fresh air and exercise makes one ravenous throughout the day. Although the ¨pilgrim´s menu¨ can be repeditive the food offered is generally delicious and there´s always plenty. Most evenings we are given the choice of a hearty soup, mixed salad (topped with egg and tuna) or pasta and that´s just the first course. The second course can be pork, fish, rabbit, ham or eggs with vegetables and potatoes. Then a dessert is included with a bottle of red wine and water. Of course bread accompanies every meal much to my chagrin! All this food can usually be had for the sum of anywhere from 7 to 9 euros! Since the albergues usually charge anywhere from a low of 3 euros to 8 euros for a night´s accomodation one can complete the Camino on a pretty tight budget! As a life experience my Camino journey is unbelievable value in so many ways!

Magic of the Mountains

The last few days have included some of the most spectacular scenery of the Camino. I have climbed two mountains and been on top of the world! On Sunday starting from Rabinal del Camino in a light mist I climbed to over 1400 metres. The first village was totally deserted (only five residents) and the remains of houses and a crumbled church gave the place a spooky quality. The trail was narrow and lined with shrubs of brilliant purple and yellow with alpine flowers everywhere close to the ground. Despite the poor visibility, the morning was magical - we knew we were climbing very high as the trail was steep but the mist turned to rain and later hail - we encountered all the bad weather in one day after several days of perfect weather! All around us there were the sounds of cow bells, songbirds and the wind. Suddenly the clouds moved away and the sun broke through - the views were incredible! We could see the trail snaking back down the mountain and the tiny figures of other pilgrims making their way through the rain as we started to strip off our very wet outerwear.

At Cruz de Ferro (a tall wooden pole with an iron cross on top) the tradition is to leave a stone from home with a wish that all the bad history will stay behind in that spot. The pile of stones left by pilgrims over the centuries is enormous. Of course I left my own stone behind and continued on my way much lighter! The rest of that day we climbed again and then made the long descent , which is very hard on the legs and knees as the trail is covered with loose stones. Villages appear far off in the distance - it takes forever to reach them as one must traverse the mountains to descend. The local bars(restaurants) are happy to see us - hungry pilgrims can eat and drink much more than regular patrons!

Flowers are blooming everywhere in Spain in May and the alpine flowers are unbelievable. Sometimes a hill is covered with lavendar and buttercups, the meadows with daisies, clover and the prettiest white flowers I cannot name. The fragrance adds to the magic - I could be in heaven! I am also amazed but the quality and profusion of roses along the Camino. Even a broken down shepherd´s hut has a rose bush growing at the side and there has been no sign of mold or black spot on any roses I´ve seen. Every colour and size of bloom is represented - it is quite remarkable. If I spoke the language better I´d find out the secret! Even at the highest altitudes farms and gardens are well attended. Often the farmer will arrive in his little car with his tools and spend time tending the plants before leaving - probably for the closest town where he lives. There are few houses on the hills, usually just a small hut for protection from sudden bad weather. The sheep and cows are taken from their barns in the villages in the mornings and herded up into the high pastures where they stay all day. One day in the mountains we encountered a shepherd moving his flock with his dogs in ther middle of a thunderstorm. I had to make way and wait for them to pass - a frightening situation as there were huge power towers right overhead. There are no options when this happens - the farmer has the right of way on the mountain trails!

Today I climbed up to O´Cebreiro (over 1300 metres) in brilliant sunshine, the trail dry and all was wonderful! For the first time on the Camino I was entirely alone with my thoughts and the magnificence of nature! For the past two days I have walked with John and Encarnita Gardner, friends from Toronto who have returned this year to complete the Camino they started last year. It was wonderful spending time with them - they both speak Spanish and have a weath of knowledge about the Camino. Yesterday we travelled from Cacabelos, through Villafranca and up the Pradela route to a ridge which followed along the Valcarce pass. It was a taxing day for all of us - the day was hot and the climb long and steep but very rewarding with beautiful views into the valleys below. Many people chose the road option and we could see them far below following a highway all the way. As hard as the trail was I believe we chose the best route - another day of magic in the mountains made beter by the company of friends!

Leon and Beyond

Yesterday I spent the better part of a day in the city of Leon. We arrived on market day and one of the major plazas was full of booths featuring local meat, cheese, fruits , vegetables and other goods. After the quiet of the Meseta it was exciting to be in a big city and wander around like a tourist. The Leon cathederal is a beautiful gothic masterpiece with the most elaborate stained glass windows. The light from the windows is so illuminating even in such a massive space that I was able to use my camera inside without a flash. Later in the day I joined a small group admitted to a renovation platform high inside the cathederal where we were able to see some of the stained glass very close to the ceiling. I have never experienced anything like it - we were up about 20 metres and the effect was awe inspiring. It was such an emotional moment for everyone in the group. We could actually touch the windows - the colours at close range were incredibly bright and then we could look down into the body of the cathederal and see all of the design laid out beneath us.

By contrast to the cathederals in this part of Spain the village churches have been quite simple (usually Romanesque in design) but with ornate altar pieces as their main ornamentation. We have often found them to be like an oasis of cool space after a hot day on the Camino. Sometimes when the albergue is near or attached to a church we are invited to take part in a special mass or service. In the village of Granon the service was on the day before mother´s day and dedicated to the Virgin Mary. The service was led by a woman and included responses by the congregation that most of us didn´t understand. However, the hymns were sung without music or even the aid of hymnals in the sweetest voices by the men and women (mostly elderly) who made up the congregation. Their faith and comfort with their church was quite inspiring -most of us were very touched. In so many of these villages, it is the older residents who keep up the traditions.

French Connection

Today I walked the Camino with Maryse, a French Canadian who lives in Kelowna BC. Most of the trail was on long dusty roads (we´re still on the Meseta) but we talked the whole distance of over 25km and the time passed more quickly. The spring flowers along the trail are lovely right now - there are poppies, daisies and and lavender as well as thyme and rosemary growing wild. Flowering bushes and some fruit trees give off a heady fragrance especially as the day heats up and along the rivers we can hear the odd sounds made by local frogs which are very much like the quacking of thousands of ducks!

We arrived in Mansilla this afternoon quite exhausted from the last 8km which followed along a roadway on hard packed surface. I had carried extra water and food including a tin of sardines and two oranges as there were no spots to buy food. My pack was much heavier - it was such a relief to find a bed available in the only albergue in town. Maryse has met many French pilgrims along the Camino. Several of them had planned a dinner together at the albergue including us in their invitation. The men shopped and prepared the food and we couldn´t have had a more delicious meal in the finest restaurant. Spanish cheeses, olives and meats as well as a fresh tomato and cucumber salad were accompanied by local wines and ice-cream for dessert. The women did the dishes. Following the meal we sang songs in French (I hummed, as did John a South African who like me has limited French ) and created an instant competition with a nearby group of German pilgrims who tried to outdo us with their own renditions! Such fun was had by all - it was one of those special Camino evenings with people who are able to live life to the fullest. The next time I travel in Europe I plan to be more fluent in French and Spanish -it´s my little pact with myself!

Half Way!

Today we reached the half way mark. I've travelled over 400km and spent 19 days on the Camino. The last few days on the Meseta have been along flat dusty tracks covered in loose stones. I am grateful for my hiking boots, walking poles and intersting travel companions. We sing songs, tell stories and keep alert for the odd lizard, rabbit or snake. There are few animal inhabitants of the Meseta but thousands of birds / their songs fill the air and the bushes are alive with them. In the villages, storks take up residence on church towers and every nest has a young one waiting for food. Storks make a clacking sound and sometimes it's the only sound we hear when we enter a village. Along this part of the Camino there are some near deserted villages. It seems that young people move to the big cities for work and the elderly inhabitants who remain live quietly inside during the day. Luckily the villages with albergues are happening places once we all arrive!

Contrast of City and Country

This Tuesday we entered Burgos, a cathederal city of over 200,000 inhabitants, which explains the near deserted villages we have passed through in the last few days. As pilgrims we are always off the Spanish schedule - we start our journey each day before bars (restaurants which also serve liquor) are open for breakfast or even coffee. When we stop for coffee later in the morning, bars are busy with locals on the way to work and always served first as they speak the language. At the end of our day of walking everything is closed for siesta and so it goes! We learn to grab food when it´s available and have impromptu picnics along the route.

Burgos was a different story. It is a beautiful city pulsing with life even during siesta. The water front along the Arlanzon River is kept in its natural state ( I saw several men fly fishing along the banks) Above the river a prominade lined with plane trees will offer shade as the summer gets hotter. In Spain as in parts of France rows of these trees are grown together by careful joining of the lateral branches overhead forming the most attractive pattern. Although the weather has been quite temperate for my journey you can imagine how hot this area will be in July and August when the Camino is most popular. The centrepiece of Burgos is the magnificent Catedral de Santa Maria. In the Gothic style it is one of the finest cathedrals of Spain and an archectural treasure - I especially loved the cloisters which were enhanced by stained glass, arched windows - a cool refuge from the bustle of the city.

In Burgos at the enormous municipal albergue I encountered many fellow pilgrims (peligrinos) I had not seen since early days on the Camino. The city was a stopping place for some who planned to spend a day or two enjoying the sights but I stayed the afternoon and overnight and moved along. My goal is to finish the Camino early enough to undertake another small Camino from Santiago to Finisterre (the coast) which will add another 100 km and take about four days.

After Burgos we quickly enter the area of Spain called the Meseta - a wilderness of endless crop fields with little shade and few places to buy food and find drinking water. Many people tell me the Meseta was their favourite part of the Camino. The terrain is relatively flat - one walks on a dirt track and the body starts to accept the weight of the pack after two weeks of hills, rocks and muddy washouts. I am limping less for sure as are my companions and it is possible to think, reflect and enjoy the beautiful sky streching forever. Tonight we stopped in Castrojeriz a small town dating back to the 9th century and watched over by the ruins of a castle high on a nearby hill. There is much to see, we had dinner at lunch and I look forward to my chance to explore.

The Road Less Travelled

Today was a step back into early spring. As we set out on the trail just after dawn there was an etherial mist rising from the fields around us. I had just left Tostanos with my Kiwi friends Liz, Margaretta and Judy and Laura (from Kentucky but soon to move to Winnipeg) After we passed Villafranca we entered the trail up through the Montes de Orca. This part of the Camino was one of the most feared in older times due to it´s steepness, dense undergrowth and harsh weather. Today we encountered a very steep climb at the beginning but the trail flattened out and took us through beautiful forested areas not yet fully leafed but with early spring flowers everywhere. One section was lined for over 3 kms with gorgeous purple shrubs of a type of tall heather (over half our height and many different shades from the lightest lavender to the deepest purple) The air was cool but we enjoyed sun and blue sky - perfect hiking weather.



The company of new found friends makes the time pass quickly and as we walk along we get to know each other. The variety in the people on the Camino is remarkable - there are all ages and occupations. A doctor from Australia might be sharing the trail with a student from Romania and a retired farmer from New Zealand. In the hostels all of us have chance to relax and unwind at the end of the long day´s hike and there are always new pilgrims as well as familiar faces. In some locations we are offered wonderful hospitality and comfortable (bunk) beds with modern if simple facilities. In other places the accomodations are primitive - thin mats on the floor of an old, drafty church with one toilet and shower for twenty people. However the situation, there is always something wonderful to celebrate and we are grateful. Some people are on a tight schedule and must cover over 25km in a day - others are "smelling the roses" and taking extra time to visit churches, historic sites or simply staying for the odd rest day in a town or village. I have allowed some extra time but find I want to stay connected with those travellers I´ve met along the way. So with a brisk pace (I like to walk quickly) I still manage to take hundreds of photos and keep up with the others.

Wednesday May 6th

It's hard to believe it's only been a week since I started the Camino. Fran leaves tomorrow for Madrid to meet Dan and I will really miss her. Tonight we are relaxing with friends Karen and Adrianna after covering over 150km on the way to Santiago. We are in Viana, a beautiful city dominated by two beautiful churches ( I wish I could upload photos but it doesn´t seem possible from these remote locations.)

The last few days have been sunny and warm and the countryside very hilly with vineyards and olive groves as far as the eye can see. Everyone on the Camino is suffering various injuries such as foot blisters, heat rash, shin splints and sore muscles. Each afternoon when we stop for the day people can be seen helping each other with bandages, blister kits and back rubs. The relief one feels when there's a bed available at the albergue is incredible! We bunk in (men and women, young and old all in the same space). In some locations we have enjoyed outdoor clotheslines and a sunny patio to sit while the laundry dries. Every day socks and underwear have to be washed - most people have only one change of clothes and it's important to change socks during the day to avoid blisters.

All the senses are stimulated on the Camino. We have seen beautiful views, smelled fragrent spring flowers, heard the songs of thousands of birds and tasted wonderful food. Everything tastes amazing when you have walked miles and stop for a break. A piece of local cheese with a hunk of bread finished off with fresh spring water becomes a meal for the gods! In some towns a pilgrims meal is offered early and includes local wine. No matter how simple the fare we are grateful - restaurants in Spain serve dinner very late and we need to be in bed between 9 and 10 o´clock.


This part of Spain has many ancient villages with the churches visible for miles. The ones we have visited have been mostly in the Romanesque style, with simple lines and very solid construction. Pilgrims are treated well - often there is a pigrim mass in the early evening and villagers call out "buen camino" as we pass. It is interesting how the siesta is so much a part of Spanish culture. If we pass though a village between the hours of 2 and 4 o´clock everything is closed, shutters are closed and the streets are deserted except for the pilgrims hobbling through!
After 4 o´clock everything comes to life, workers are back on the job and we can buy supplies as shop doors are opened again! Finally after a week we understand the routine and work around it!
Part of the charm of the Camino is that you become more connected than you would as a tourist - even with limited language skills we seem to be understood and treated with kindness. That is remarkable considering what a rag-tag bunch we are on the trail.

The Adventure Begins

So far the Camino has been an experience like nothing I've done before, a combination of adventure and endurance test. Every day we are up early at sunrise and on the trail before breakfast. Our packs contain everything we need and only the bare minimum. The first day Fran and I mailed home things we could do without to keep the pack as light as possible. Stripped down to the bare necessities, we focus on the challenges ahead.

Every small pleasure, an orange shared on the trail, a cafe con leche in a warm and dry restaurant, tastes wonderful! The first day we climbed from St Jean Pied de Port straight up a mountain in a light rain and fog. Our rain suits served us well and the boots stayed dry but we were so glad to stop after about 8 kms at Orisson, our first albergue (refuge). There we met the people who have become such good friends on the Camino - an assorted collection from all over the world, Australia, Korea, Austria, France and Italy. We keep meeting on the trail and greeting each other as old friends.

Days two and three were more challenging than we could have imagined. The Pyranees provided us with spectacular views as we climbed higher and we marveled in the silence, broken only by the cries of falcons and the bells of horses grazing at the highest altitudes! There was snow as we descended through magnificent groves of ancient beech trees and over the border into Spain. At Roncesvalles when we couldn't have taken another step we waited for two hours for a bed in the albergue and then attended the pilgrim's mass where blessings were given in every language.

Yesterday we hiked to Zubiri for over 20 kms through peaceful farmlands and forested hills where the mud on the trail was at times up to our ankles- like good Canadians we bushwacked to avoid the most treacherous sections.

It's ironic how in the worst of conditions you can feel so alive!