Contrast of City and Country

This Tuesday we entered Burgos, a cathederal city of over 200,000 inhabitants, which explains the near deserted villages we have passed through in the last few days. As pilgrims we are always off the Spanish schedule - we start our journey each day before bars (restaurants which also serve liquor) are open for breakfast or even coffee. When we stop for coffee later in the morning, bars are busy with locals on the way to work and always served first as they speak the language. At the end of our day of walking everything is closed for siesta and so it goes! We learn to grab food when it´s available and have impromptu picnics along the route.

Burgos was a different story. It is a beautiful city pulsing with life even during siesta. The water front along the Arlanzon River is kept in its natural state ( I saw several men fly fishing along the banks) Above the river a prominade lined with plane trees will offer shade as the summer gets hotter. In Spain as in parts of France rows of these trees are grown together by careful joining of the lateral branches overhead forming the most attractive pattern. Although the weather has been quite temperate for my journey you can imagine how hot this area will be in July and August when the Camino is most popular. The centrepiece of Burgos is the magnificent Catedral de Santa Maria. In the Gothic style it is one of the finest cathedrals of Spain and an archectural treasure - I especially loved the cloisters which were enhanced by stained glass, arched windows - a cool refuge from the bustle of the city.

In Burgos at the enormous municipal albergue I encountered many fellow pilgrims (peligrinos) I had not seen since early days on the Camino. The city was a stopping place for some who planned to spend a day or two enjoying the sights but I stayed the afternoon and overnight and moved along. My goal is to finish the Camino early enough to undertake another small Camino from Santiago to Finisterre (the coast) which will add another 100 km and take about four days.

After Burgos we quickly enter the area of Spain called the Meseta - a wilderness of endless crop fields with little shade and few places to buy food and find drinking water. Many people tell me the Meseta was their favourite part of the Camino. The terrain is relatively flat - one walks on a dirt track and the body starts to accept the weight of the pack after two weeks of hills, rocks and muddy washouts. I am limping less for sure as are my companions and it is possible to think, reflect and enjoy the beautiful sky streching forever. Tonight we stopped in Castrojeriz a small town dating back to the 9th century and watched over by the ruins of a castle high on a nearby hill. There is much to see, we had dinner at lunch and I look forward to my chance to explore.